Oral Pleasures
In these absurd and horrifying times, I sometimes feel a little silly writing about food. In a previous life, working as managing editor for a magazine in Chiang Mai, Thailand, I spent most of my ink on human rights abuses, religious hypocrisy and vanishing indigenous cultures. I wrote about food, too, but it was always a separate, secondary interest. When I moved back to the states — just a few days before Trump announced his candidacy for president (nobody’s ever accused me of great timing) — and eventually nabbed the food editor gig at Creative Loafing, I was thrilled at the opportunity yet hesitant to box myself in. And as I watched the darkest parts of our national ethos advance with more and more impunity, my hesitancy remained. Neo-Nazis are marching the streets, for chrissakes. Who cares about the consistency of one’s crème brulée?
What I’ve learned over this past year, however, is that food can be political. Rather than a box, it’s an entry point. After all, everybody eats. Just ask the poor shmuck responsible for serving our tangerine fuckwad-in-chief’s well-done steak with ketchup every day.
With this notion in mind, we at CL have tried to use food as a lens to explore local issues like gentrification, homelessness and refugee rights. The 2017 edition of Oral Pleasures, positioned within this year’s overall theme of Evolution/Revolution, recognizes those within our culinary community who do the same.
Atlanta is a city of revolutionaries. We can and will fight the powers that be. We can and will evolve. Now, let’s eat.
— Hilary Cadigan, CL Food Editor
Featured
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“First ticket for Solar Sunday!” front of house manager K.C. Myers shouts to her staff. “We are a little short on volunteers today because people are out of town for the solar eclipse.” But Myers’ face bears no signs of worry. A 20-plus-year restaurant veteran, she says her path toward nonprofit work began one day when she “began to feel unfulfilled in life and wanted to find meaningful work.” Café 458 is where she landed.
Every Sunday, the little restaurant relies on volunteers in the front and back to run its often-busy brunch service. Some are repeat volunteers, but many are first timers. “I don’t require any restaurant experience, but most of them are in the service industry,” Myers explains. That said, “as a front of house manager, I have to be mentally prepared to do all of service by myself just in case.”
Café 458 has a classic diner feel, with the kind of funk music that old folks play at fish fries and family reunions. Batdorf & Bronson’s Ren Doughty provides organic coffee every week. The walls are blanketed with daily vegetable plate ingredients and other menu information written in rainbow-colored chalk. From younger, solo diners to elderly couples, all arrive hungry and eager to learn of ACSS and the work they do.
Chef Shane Devereux, who boasts credentials from Top Flr, the Lawrence, Barcelona Wine Bar and the Sound Table, delivers a simple 10-item brunch menu consisting largely of Southern staples such as chicken and waffles, spicy shrimp and grits, and biscuits with pepper gravy. The fresh, local and often donated ingredients bring a familiar comfort and satisfaction that pairs well with the café’s soul-warming mission.
Husband and wife founders A.B. Short and Ann Connor began working with the homeless community back in 1981, but it wasn’t until Short partnered with John Pickens, founder of the Georgia Justice Project, that Café 458 came to be. Believing that the restaurant’s mission complemented Martin Luther King’s Jr.’s teachings, the pair scouted out the civil rights leader’s birthplace and opened their doors on Edgewood in January of 1988.
After 29 years, Café 458 continues to serve its cause. Mondays through Saturdays are “client-focused,” meaning homeless people are invited every morning to come in for breakfast and, as ACSS’s director of development marketing Stephanie Shapiro puts it, “break bread with our staff.” Shapiro volunteers (often paying for her children’s care while she’s there) nearly every Sunday, as well. “Most people who come in heard about us on Yelp, so I’m there to let them know our history and what we are about,” she says. “Café 458 … it’s like my child.”
Her voice grows passionate as she begins speaking of the clients she serves. “When the homeless people come in for breakfast, they come in apologetic,” she says, pointing to a widespread lack in confidence among homeless populations, due to society’s heavy stigma. But, she adds, that stigma is misplaced. “If something happens, most people nowadays don’t have a month of rent saved, so it can happen to anyone. And many people don’t know this until they walk that walk.”
Since 2010, with 10 percent of the ACSS’ revenue coming from Café 458, the nonprofit has helped 1,208 homeless men and women secure full-time jobs, with wages averaging $9.41 an hour. More than 1,500 participants have completed the CareerWorks employment readiness program, which includes coursework and employment readiness training, job search assistance, help with professional appearance and housing placement. Self-sustainability is key at ACSS. Homeless people come into the office during the week to utilize the center’s computer room. They update profiles and resumes and send out job applications. “We focus on sustainable jobs with benefits, guaranteed pay checks … we also give out around 30,000 MARTA cards a year because to sustain a job you gotta be able to get there,” Shapiro adds.
The ACSS also conducts drug tests, and despite typical assumptions, Shapiro says less than 10 percent test positive: “The people on Edgewood aren’t here trying to score drugs; they are here because it’s their home during the day… They are couch surfing or sleeping in shelters at night.” But if a homeless person walks in on a Sunday during the café’s operating hours, they won’t be denied. “People think the homeless people want a handout, but they want an open hand that reaches back. That’s it. says Shapiro. “Many times, the homeless end up volunteering around the office. They will say, ‘let me get that box for you, Ms. Stephanie.’”
Back at the café, after boxing up the leftovers from a very large mozzarella and veggie frittata and thanking the volunteers for their service, I exit through the lobby. There, I meet another volunteer, Melissa Camilo, who says that a homeless man was just here. “When I went to tell K.C. Myers, she only asked for his name,” she tells me. Myers already had an idea as to who it was: one of Café 458’s VIPs (a title Shapiro gives to their homeless clients). Once the man’s identity was confirmed, the manager explained that he was there simply because he’s hungry. “Bring this out to him for me,” she told the volunteer, handing her a plate of food.
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“First ticket for Solar Sunday!” front of house manager K.C. Myers shouts to her staff. “We are a little short on volunteers today because people are out of town for the solar eclipse.” But Myers’ face bears no signs of worry. A 20-plus-year restaurant veteran, she says her path toward nonprofit work began one day when she “began to feel unfulfilled in life and wanted to find meaningful work.” Café 458 is where she landed.
Every Sunday, the little restaurant relies on volunteers in the front and back to run its often-busy brunch service. Some are repeat volunteers, but many are first timers. “I don’t require any restaurant experience, but most of them are in the service industry,” Myers explains. That said, “as a front of house manager, I have to be mentally prepared to do all of service by myself just in case.”
Café 458 has a classic diner feel, with the kind of funk music that old folks play at fish fries and family reunions. Batdorf & Bronson’s Ren Doughty provides organic coffee every week. The walls are blanketed with daily vegetable plate ingredients and other menu information written in rainbow-colored chalk. From younger, solo diners to elderly couples, all arrive hungry and eager to learn of ACSS and the work they do.
Chef Shane Devereux, who boasts credentials from Top Flr, the Lawrence, Barcelona Wine Bar and the Sound Table, delivers a simple 10-item brunch menu consisting largely of Southern staples such as chicken and waffles, spicy shrimp and grits, and biscuits with pepper gravy. The fresh, local and often donated ingredients bring a familiar comfort and satisfaction that pairs well with the café’s soul-warming mission.
Husband and wife founders A.B. Short and Ann Connor began working with the homeless community back in 1981, but it wasn’t until Short partnered with John Pickens, founder of the Georgia Justice Project, that Café 458 came to be. Believing that the restaurant’s mission complemented Martin Luther King’s Jr.’s teachings, the pair scouted out the civil rights leader’s birthplace and opened their doors on Edgewood in January of 1988.
After 29 years, Café 458 continues to serve its cause. Mondays through Saturdays are “client-focused,” meaning homeless people are invited every morning to come in for breakfast and, as ACSS’s director of development marketing Stephanie Shapiro puts it, “break bread with our staff.” Shapiro volunteers (often paying for her children’s care while she’s there) nearly every Sunday, as well. “Most people who come in heard about us on Yelp, so I’m there to let them know our history and what we are about,” she says. “Café 458 … it’s like my child.”
Her voice grows passionate as she begins speaking of the clients she serves. “When the homeless people come in for breakfast, they come in apologetic,” she says, pointing to a widespread lack in confidence among homeless populations, due to society’s heavy stigma. But, she adds, that stigma is misplaced. “If something happens, most people nowadays don’t have a month of rent saved, so it can happen to anyone. And many people don’t know this until they walk that walk.”
Since 2010, with 10 percent of the ACSS’ revenue coming from Café 458, the nonprofit has helped 1,208 homeless men and women secure full-time jobs, with wages averaging $9.41 an hour. More than 1,500 participants have completed the CareerWorks employment readiness program, which includes coursework and employment readiness training, job search assistance, help with professional appearance and housing placement. Self-sustainability is key at ACSS. Homeless people come into the office during the week to utilize the center’s computer room. They update profiles and resumes and send out job applications. “We focus on sustainable jobs with benefits, guaranteed pay checks … we also give out around 30,000 MARTA cards a year because to sustain a job you gotta be able to get there,” Shapiro adds.
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string(6838) " Oral Feature Cafe458 Featured 2017-09-13T23:57:14+00:00 oral_feature_cafe458_featured.jpg Dedicated to serving everyone, the long-running brunch spot supports self-sufficiency for Atlanta's homeless population Oral Feature Cafe458 Featured 2017-09-13T23:57:36+00:00 Cafe 458 brings out the best of Edgewood Avenue jim.harris Jim Harris By Hillary Holley 2017-09-13T23:57:36+00:00 It’s Sunday morning on Edgewood Avenue. To-go boxes, plastic cups and water bottles are the only remnants of the late-night bar scene that dominated the street just hours before. Mothers, fathers and children navigate around to receive their weekly sermon from Boulevard’s historic churches. At no other time can one witness so clearly the duality of Atlanta’s Martin Luther King Jr. district and the gentrified Old Fourth Ward. But in between the old and new sits an outlier: Café 458, a Sundays-only, volunteer-run brunch spot where all proceeds go toward the Atlanta Center for Self Sufficiency. Unlike some restaurants on Edgewood Ave., Café 458’s sole mission is inviting everyone inside, in the process providing aid to local homeless people through rapid rehousing, workforce development, veteran services, life stabilization and social enterprise in the process.
“First ticket for Solar Sunday!” front of house manager K.C. Myers shouts to her staff. “We are a little short on volunteers today because people are out of town for the solar eclipse.” But Myers’ face bears no signs of worry. A 20-plus-year restaurant veteran, she says her path toward nonprofit work began one day when she “began to feel unfulfilled in life and wanted to find meaningful work.” Café 458 is where she landed.
Every Sunday, the little restaurant relies on volunteers in the front and back to run its often-busy brunch service. Some are repeat volunteers, but many are first timers. “I don’t require any restaurant experience, but most of them are in the service industry,” Myers explains. That said, “as a front of house manager, I have to be mentally prepared to do all of service by myself just in case.”
Café 458 has a classic diner feel, with the kind of funk music that old folks play at fish fries and family reunions. Batdorf & Bronson’s Ren Doughty provides organic coffee every week. The walls are blanketed with daily vegetable plate ingredients and other menu information written in rainbow-colored chalk. From younger, solo diners to elderly couples, all arrive hungry and eager to learn of ACSS and the work they do.
Chef Shane Devereux, who boasts credentials from Top Flr, the Lawrence, Barcelona Wine Bar and the Sound Table, delivers a simple 10-item brunch menu consisting largely of Southern staples such as chicken and waffles, spicy shrimp and grits, and biscuits with pepper gravy. The fresh, local and often donated ingredients bring a familiar comfort and satisfaction that pairs well with the café’s soul-warming mission.
Husband and wife founders A.B. Short and Ann Connor began working with the homeless community back in 1981, but it wasn’t until Short partnered with John Pickens, founder of the Georgia Justice Project, that Café 458 came to be. Believing that the restaurant’s mission complemented Martin Luther King’s Jr.’s teachings, the pair scouted out the civil rights leader’s birthplace and opened their doors on Edgewood in January of 1988.
After 29 years, Café 458 continues to serve its cause. Mondays through Saturdays are “client-focused,” meaning homeless people are invited every morning to come in for breakfast and, as ACSS’s director of development marketing Stephanie Shapiro puts it, “break bread with our staff.” Shapiro volunteers (often paying for her children’s care while she’s there) nearly every Sunday, as well. “Most people who come in heard about us on Yelp, so I’m there to let them know our history and what we are about,” she says. “Café 458 … it’s like my child.”
Her voice grows passionate as she begins speaking of the clients she serves. “When the homeless people come in for breakfast, they come in apologetic,” she says, pointing to a widespread lack in confidence among homeless populations, due to society’s heavy stigma. But, she adds, that stigma is misplaced. “If something happens, most people nowadays don’t have a month of rent saved, so it can happen to anyone. And many people don’t know this until they walk that walk.”
Since 2010, with 10 percent of the ACSS’ revenue coming from Café 458, the nonprofit has helped 1,208 homeless men and women secure full-time jobs, with wages averaging $9.41 an hour. More than 1,500 participants have completed the CareerWorks employment readiness program, which includes coursework and employment readiness training, job search assistance, help with professional appearance and housing placement. Self-sustainability is key at ACSS. Homeless people come into the office during the week to utilize the center’s computer room. They update profiles and resumes and send out job applications. “We focus on sustainable jobs with benefits, guaranteed pay checks … we also give out around 30,000 MARTA cards a year because to sustain a job you gotta be able to get there,” Shapiro adds.
The ACSS also conducts drug tests, and despite typical assumptions, Shapiro says less than 10 percent test positive: “The people on Edgewood aren’t here trying to score drugs; they are here because it’s their home during the day… They are couch surfing or sleeping in shelters at night.” But if a homeless person walks in on a Sunday during the café’s operating hours, they won’t be denied. “People think the homeless people want a handout, but they want an open hand that reaches back. That’s it. says Shapiro. “Many times, the homeless end up volunteering around the office. They will say, ‘let me get that box for you, Ms. Stephanie.’”
Back at the café, after boxing up the leftovers from a very large mozzarella and veggie frittata and thanking the volunteers for their service, I exit through the lobby. There, I meet another volunteer, Melissa Camilo, who says that a homeless man was just here. “When I went to tell K.C. Myers, she only asked for his name,” she tells me. Myers already had an idea as to who it was: one of Café 458’s VIPs (a title Shapiro gives to their homeless clients). Once the man’s identity was confirmed, the manager explained that he was there simply because he’s hungry. “Bring this out to him for me,” she told the volunteer, handing her a plate of food.
“This is why Café 458 is here,” Camilo says as I open the door. “They are here to serve.” Eric Cash Cafe 458 brings out the best of Edgewood Avenue "
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Cafe 458 brings out the best of Edgewood Avenue Food and Drink
Wednesday September 13, 2017 07:57 PM EDT
Dedicated to serving everyone, the long-running brunch spot supports self-sufficiency for Atlanta's homeless population
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Best overall restaurant BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
8ARM
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
After the sad and sudden death of chef/partner Angus Brown in early January, the fate of four-month-old 8ARM was uncertain. But with deep love and tenacity, the tight-knit, uber-talented staff — including partner Nhan Le, pastry maestro Sarah Dodge and chefs Keith Remes, Wilson Gourley and Brooks Raymanmore...
After the sad and sudden death of chef/partner Angus Brown in early January, the fate of four-month-old 8ARM was uncertain. But with deep love and tenacity, the tight-knit, uber-talented staff — including partner Nhan Le, pastry maestro Sarah Dodge and chefs Keith Remes, Wilson Gourley and Brooks Rayman — managed to get the restaurant back up and running the next day … and every day since. From early mornings to late nights, cinnamon rolls to ceviches, they’ve been cooking and serving an ever-changing kaleidoscope of locally sourced culinary magic, keeping things fresh while loyally maintaining Brown’s earthy, funky vibe. The recently finished patio finds Joshua Fryer slinging drinks for the cool kids from a repurposed, tropical-themed shipping container late into the night. For all these reasons and more, 8arm is our pick for 2017’s best restaurant. We miss you terribly, Angus, but we think you’d be pretty proud of what you left behind. 710 Ponce de Leon Ave. 470-875-5856. www.8armatl.com.
photo by: Joeff Davis
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Best new chef BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Parnass Savang Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
At only 27 years old, Lawrenceville-raised chef PARNASS SAVANG boasts an impressive resume: early years spent in his father’s Thai-American restaurant, Danthai; a diploma from the Culinary Institute of America; stages at some of the world’s best Thai restaurants; and cooking experience at Empiremore...
At only 27 years old, Lawrenceville-raised chef PARNASS SAVANG boasts an impressive resume: early years spent in his father’s Thai-American restaurant, Danthai; a diploma from the Culinary Institute of America; stages at some of the world’s best Thai restaurants; and cooking experience at Empire State South, Staplehouse and Kimball House. But now, with pop-up restaurant Talat Market, Savang has created something entirely his own: the first-ever “Georgian Thai” dining concept. Every weekend night since May, inside the tiny open kitchen of Candler Park’s Gato Bizco Café, Savang and sous chef Rod Lassiter have been churning out intricate dishes that blend traditional Thai techniques with Georgia-grown, seasonally driven ingredients. Here, you might find a classic spicy Thai salad packed with local peaches or a yellow crab curry with sweet potato greens. Savang has brought a whole new level to Thai food in our city, and Talat Market manages to stand out in a culinary landscape crowded with fantastic pop-ups. Rumor has it a brick-and-mortar version is coming soon, and we’re more than a little excited. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, 6-10 p.m. Gato Bizco Café, 1660 McLendon Ave. N.E. www.instagram.com/talat_marketatl.
photo by: Eric Cash
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Best restaurant reinvention BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Bacchanalia (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
When California-trained chef duo Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison opened BACCHANALIA inside a repurposed Piedmont Road cottage back in 1993, they became one of the very first restaurants in Atlanta to embody the concept of farm-to-table. By 1999, they’d expanded to a former meatpacking plant onmore...
When California-trained chef duo Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison opened BACCHANALIA inside a repurposed Piedmont Road cottage back in 1993, they became one of the very first restaurants in Atlanta to embody the concept of farm-to-table. By 1999, they’d expanded to a former meatpacking plant on the Westside, where they solidified their reputation as Atlanta’s fine dining standard-bearer. Quatrano won a Best Chef: Southeast award from the James Beard Foundation in 2003 for her dedicated use of hyperlocally sourced ingredients, masterful techniques and gorgeous plating. Then, last year, the couple announced they’d be moving once again — this time to a purpose-built monolith of glass and wood designed in collaboration between the proprietors and design firm Perkins+Will. The new space opened this spring, complete with an attached gourmet market, Star Provisions and onsite herb garden. Today, newly appointed executive chef Jonathan Kallini keeps Bacchanalia’s prix fixe menu as strong as ever, and still just as dedicated to local sourcing: Much of the produce comes directly from Quatrano’s own Summerland Farm in Cartersville. Nearly two decades after it opened, amid an entirely new and entirely more crowded culinary landscape, Bacchanalia remains both relevant and fresh. 1460 Ellsworth Industrial Blvd. N.W. 404-365-0410. www.starprovisions.com/bacchanalia.
photo by: Joeff Davis/ CL File
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Best late-night hangout BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Bon Ton Atlanta (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Midtown’s BON TON is as seat-of-the-pants as a restaurant gets. The mode here is house party, and the décor is pure kitsch in the retro den of fictional founder Hoa Nguyen and his most interesting mashup of Louisiana-meets-Vietnam cookery. A cheeky neon sign reads “Fancy Service” as fried basketsmore...
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Best OTP newcomer BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Spring Restaurant
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Praise be the OTP restaurant that makes intowners (not to mention out-of-towners) jealous. Marietta’s SPRING is such a place. Chef Brian So, formerly of Sobban, crafts elegantly simple compositions — like a recent sweet corn risotto with charred padróns and a scattering of local chanterelles —more...
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Best new café BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Petit Chou (Where to Eat Recommendation)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
In a recently restored, periwinkle-painted edifice on Memorial Drive in Cabbagetown sits PETIT CHOU, a French-meets-Southern café that backs up its cozy ambiance with a serious commitment to local sourcing and a deeply felt mutual respect between management, staff and customers. Chef Diana Presson Ellermore...
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Best barbecue BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
B's Cracklin' Barbecue (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Originally based in Savannah, B’S CRACKLIN’ BBQ pitmaster Bryan Furman came to the A and sweet-talked us with his no-frills culinary ode to Georgia: mustard-based and vinegar barbecue sauces made with peaches. Then we tasted the heritage breed whole hogs he smokes over oak and cherry wood. Furthermore...
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Best gluten-free oasis BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Mediterranea Restaurant & Bakery
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Year » 2017
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Kimball House (Featured)
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Best brunch BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Best brunch revolution BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Brush Sushi Izakaya (Where to Eat Recommendation)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
There are countless brunches in Atlanta, but there is nothing like chef Jason Liang’s at Downtown Decatur’s BRUSH SUSHI IZAKAYA. He shakes up the typical ATL a.m. routine with a serving of Japanese tradition: super fluffy pancakes (both sweet and savory), lovely rice bowls with assorted treasuresmore...
There are countless brunches in Atlanta, but there is nothing like chef Jason Liang’s at Downtown Decatur’s BRUSH SUSHI IZAKAYA. He shakes up the typical ATL a.m. routine with a serving of Japanese tradition: super fluffy pancakes (both sweet and savory), lovely rice bowls with assorted treasures from the sea and a sizeable selection of sushi rolls. The eggs here are ajitsuke: marinated, soft-boiled, and resting atop oodles of noodles in a lobster or manila clam broth. Liang has gained a following for his skillful omakase presentation, but you haven’t seen his full range until you’ve had a Brush with his brunch. 316 Church St., Decatur, 678-949-9412. www.brushatl.com.
less...
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Best biscuits BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Bomb Biscuit Company
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Erika Council is the charismatic food writer, recipe developer and photographer behind the popular website, Southern Soufflé. It is here the reader is taken through a brilliantly southern focused epic, with tales of food, love and freedom. Erika has become a fixture in the southern culinary world with her popular Biscuit Pop-Upsin Atlanta GA. 2020-08-05T17:56:07+00:00 Erika Council erika.council Food Writer www.southernsouffle.com erika.council "
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erika.council Food Writer
From Erika's website:
Erika Council is the charismatic food writer, recipe developer and photographer behind the popular website, Southern Soufflé. It is here the reader is taken through a brilliantly southern focused epic, with tales of food, love and freedom. Erika has become a fixture in the southern culinary world with her popular Biscuit Pop-Upsin Atlanta GA.
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Known for her famous pop-up Sunday Supper Club, ERIKA COUNCIL’s biscuit recipe (and perhaps her graceful charm) comes by way of her grandmothers. Lately, she has been popping up at B’s Cracklin’ BBQ, mixing and folding flour, butter, shortening (or B’s famous lard) and buttermilk into layers by hand. The softest, fluffiest biscuits and her iced Cinn-rolls draw long queues and early sellouts. Council’s grace extends to her pretty blog, Southern Souffle, where she shares her recipes and stories of the South. We crown her our Biscuit Queen. www.southernsouffle.com.
less...
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Best industry trend BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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There is a new sort of sustainability being talked about among our food and beverage community — an industry with a well-documented tendency toward substance abuse. A MINDFULLY SOBER SUBCULTURE is emerging with the message that drugs and alcohol need not go hand-in-hand with restaurant work. This year,more...
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Best 'hood for vegans BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
West End Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
As the Beltline’s Westside Trail opens and the developers descend upon Atlanta’s WEST END, many longtime residents feel wary, and rightfully so. The historically Afrocentric enclave has long been a nucleus for education, spirituality and culture, welcoming an array of religious groups and arts andmore...
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Best unexpected expansion BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Yet Tuh (Where to Eat Recommendation)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
If we had to guess which Atlanta restaurants might add a second location, YET TUH would have been near the bottom of the list. The original eatery, hidden a block off Buford Highway, is just so homey and unassuming that the very idea that it could multiply seemed implausible. But here they are, withmore...
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string(1023) " Chef and home cooks alike used to arrive early to Peachtree Road Farmers Market to get first dibs on forager MICHAEL HENDRICKS’ found edibles. This year, however, after nine years of working closely with Staplehouse’s Ryan Smith, Hendricks took a forager’s dream job, searching through the woods full-time for chef Smith’s award-winning restaurant. Besides mushrooms, he brings in ramps, daylily shoots and buds, wood sorrel, Japanese knotweed and violet leaves. That dreamy chicken liver tart recently came tweezered with Hendricks’ golden chanterelles, and marrying their skills together is the basis Staplehouse was born upon: “health, happiness, and longevity through what we eat,” as Hendricks puts it. He can take a little credit for that edible flower in your cocktail, too, as he also cares for the herb garden out back. Staplehouse, 541 Edgewood Ave. S.E. 404-524-5005. www.staplehouse.com. Best career move Best Chef Michael Hendricks Staplehouse 2017-09-12T14:29:52+00:00 Best career move "
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Best career move BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Staplehouse (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Chef and home cooks alike used to arrive early to Peachtree Road Farmers Market to get first dibs on forager MICHAEL HENDRICKS’ found edibles. This year, however, after nine years of working closely with Staplehouse’s Ryan Smith, Hendricks took a forager’s dream job, searching through the woodsmore...
Chef and home cooks alike used to arrive early to Peachtree Road Farmers Market to get first dibs on forager MICHAEL HENDRICKS’ found edibles. This year, however, after nine years of working closely with Staplehouse’s Ryan Smith, Hendricks took a forager’s dream job, searching through the woods full-time for chef Smith’s award-winning restaurant. Besides mushrooms, he brings in ramps, daylily shoots and buds, wood sorrel, Japanese knotweed and violet leaves. That dreamy chicken liver tart recently came tweezered with Hendricks’ golden chanterelles, and marrying their skills together is the basis Staplehouse was born upon: “health, happiness, and longevity through what we eat,” as Hendricks puts it. He can take a little credit for that edible flower in your cocktail, too, as he also cares for the herb garden out back. Staplehouse, 541 Edgewood Ave. S.E. 404-524-5005. www.staplehouse.com.
less...
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Best dinner party secret weapon BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Bakkal International Foods
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Best long-awaited recognition BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Miller Union (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Root to leaf to medal: After five consecutive years of nominations for one of the restaurant industry’s highest honors, Miller Union’s STEVEN SATTERFIELD was finally named Best Chef: Southeast of 2017 by the James Beard Foundation. In a ceremony last spring in Chicago, fellow titleholder Anne Quatranomore...
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Best food spectacle BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Gunshow (Featured)
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Best restaurant group revolution BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
The Canteen (Permanently Closed)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Why have one when you can have four? That’s the theory in play at Midtown newbie THE CANTEEN, which pushes the boundaries of the term “food hall” by splitting up a space that formerly housed one restaurant (the Spence) into three food stalls (Yalla, Fred’s Meat & Bread, TGM Bagel) and a fullmore...
Why have one when you can have four? That’s the theory in play at Midtown newbie THE CANTEEN, which pushes the boundaries of the term “food hall” by splitting up a space that formerly housed one restaurant (the Spence) into three food stalls (Yalla, Fred’s Meat & Bread, TGM Bagel) and a full bar (Square Bar). It’s a bold and, dare we say, revolutionary repurposing of the real estate overlooking the Centergy One plaza in Tech Square — and clearly one built off lessons learned by partners Todd Ginsberg, Jennifer and Ben Johnson and Shelley Sweet at their Krog Street Market locations of Yalla and Fred’s. From coffee and a bagel in the a.m. to decadent sandwiches at lunch to a burger and a beer as the sun sets, the Canteen packs plenty of punch to keep both residents and office-goers well fed all day. 75 Fifth St. N.W., Suite 170. www.thecanteenatl.com.
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Best place to feast when you're stoned BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Food Terminal (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Best local coffee company BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Radio Roasters Coffee
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Now that Atlanta is well saturated with good coffee shops, the micro-roasters are the ones making waves — especially in the wake of regional player Revelator snapping up and rebranding local darling Octane. RADIO ROASTERS is all about serving ATL, and both its single-origin coffees and its sleek designmore...
Now that Atlanta is well saturated with good coffee shops, the micro-roasters are the ones making waves — especially in the wake of regional player Revelator snapping up and rebranding local darling Octane. RADIO ROASTERS is all about serving ATL, and both its single-origin coffees and its sleek design aesthetic have us amped up. (Scope their website, and you’ll see what we mean.) Radio Roasters was founded in 2013 by Chip Grabow, whose background lies in news media with NPR and CNN, but the business has kept a relatively low profile until this past year, focusing on coffees roasted to order. They now host Open Roastery Saturdays at their base in Scottdale, plus offer a free delivery zone stretching eastward from Downtown through Edgewood to Decatur and Avondale Estates — making it easy to get your hands on some killer beans. www.radioroasters.com.
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Best casual steakhouse BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
The Federal (Permanently Closed)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Best Georgia beer development BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Following years of work by the Georgia Craft Brewers Guild and countless beer advocates around the state, SENATE BILL 85 was finally signed into law this year, allowing Peach State beer makers to start selling beer directly to their customers on Sept. 1. Georgia is the final state in the country to passmore...
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Best Atlanta beer BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Wrecking Bar Brewpub (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Perhaps the most-talked-about craft beer trend of 2017 was the New England-style India Pale Ale. An easy-drinking riff on craft’s most popular style, NE IPAs prioritize tantalizing hop aromas and juicy flavor profiles over bitterness and the “hoppy” wallop generally associated with IPAs. Wreckingmore...
Perhaps the most-talked-about craft beer trend of 2017 was the New England-style India Pale Ale. An easy-drinking riff on craft’s most popular style, NE IPAs prioritize tantalizing hop aromas and juicy flavor profiles over bitterness and the “hoppy” wallop generally associated with IPAs. Wrecking Bar’s one-off JUICE WILLIS IPA SERIES — which the Little Five Points brewpub started in January — has been a joy to behold in that regard. They’ve released a new beer every few weeks (nine variations and counting at press time), each time adding new recipe tweaks and a new Bruce Willis pun for the name. It’s rare to see a local beer that’s so on trend, delicious and admirably exemplifying brewing innovation all at once. Check @wreckingbarbrewpub on Instagram for the latest batch. Wrecking Bar Brewpub, 292 Moreland Ave. N.E. 404-221-2600. www.wreckingbarbrewpub.com.
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Best new brewpub BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Hopstix
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
In burgeoning Chamblee, HOPSTIX brewer and owner Andy Tan has blessed us with a concept both inventive and unprecedented. His Asian fusion brewpub, with its wood-laced, rustic chic interior, boasts a tap list of Georgia craft breweries alongside an array of consistently solid IPAs, wheat beers, portersmore...
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photo by: Joeff Davis
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Best little chocolate factory in Atlanta BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Xocolatl Small Batch Chocolate
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Best gas station snack BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Although obvious genius James “Fly” Lindsay invented RAP SNACKS in Philadelphia back in 1994, the self-described “official snacks of hip-hop” didn’t go mainstream until last summer, when a regional re-launch brought them to shelves up and down the East Coast (including Atlanta). Migos, ourmore...
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Best food revolutionary BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Abiodun Henderson Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Born in Brooklyn as the daughter of a Liberian immigrant and a Black Panther, 34-year-old ABIODUN HENDERSON is no stranger to social justice. Though her parents both died young, they instilled in her a passion for helping others, whatever the cost. Eventually, Henderson joined the Occupy the Hood movement,more...
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Best dessert revolution BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
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Year » 2017
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
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Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Home grown GA Restaurant (Featured)
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Best brunch BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
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Best bakery BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Proof Bakeshop
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Best desserts BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Best Caribbean BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Nakato Japanese Restaurant (Where to Eat Recommendation)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
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Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Best Southern BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
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Best sushi BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
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Best tacos BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
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Best doughnut BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Best fried chicken BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Best pizza BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Antico Pizza Napoletana (Featured)
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Best sandwiches BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
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Year » 2017
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Red Phone Booth (Featured)
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Year » 2017
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Best oysters BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Kimball House (Featured)
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Best restaurant design BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Cooks & Soldiers (Featured)
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Best restaurant to bring the kids BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Grindhouse Killer Burgers - Piedmont
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Best beer festival BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
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Golden Buddha Restaurant (Where to Eat Recommendation)
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Year » 2017
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Year » 2017
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Bread & Butterfly (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Bambinelli's Italian Restaurant (Where to Eat Recommendation)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Best Korean BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Gaja Korean Bar (Where to Eat Recommendation)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Gaja Korean Bar Restaurant
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|
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Kimball House (Featured)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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