Oral Pleasures
In these absurd and horrifying times, I sometimes feel a little silly writing about food. In a previous life, working as managing editor for a magazine in Chiang Mai, Thailand, I spent most of my ink on human rights abuses, religious hypocrisy and vanishing indigenous cultures. I wrote about food, too, but it was always a separate, secondary interest. When I moved back to the states — just a few days before Trump announced his candidacy for president (nobody’s ever accused me of great timing) — and eventually nabbed the food editor gig at Creative Loafing, I was thrilled at the opportunity yet hesitant to box myself in. And as I watched the darkest parts of our national ethos advance with more and more impunity, my hesitancy remained. Neo-Nazis are marching the streets, for chrissakes. Who cares about the consistency of one’s crème brulée?
What I’ve learned over this past year, however, is that food can be political. Rather than a box, it’s an entry point. After all, everybody eats. Just ask the poor shmuck responsible for serving our tangerine fuckwad-in-chief’s well-done steak with ketchup every day.
With this notion in mind, we at CL have tried to use food as a lens to explore local issues like gentrification, homelessness and refugee rights. The 2017 edition of Oral Pleasures, positioned within this year’s overall theme of Evolution/Revolution, recognizes those within our culinary community who do the same.
Atlanta is a city of revolutionaries. We can and will fight the powers that be. We can and will evolve. Now, let’s eat.
— Hilary Cadigan, CL Food Editor
Featured
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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Year » 2017
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Staplehouse
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Chef and home cooks alike used to arrive early to Peachtree Road Farmers Market to get first dibs on forager MICHAEL HENDRICKS’ found edibles. This year, however, after nine years of working closely with Staplehouse’s Ryan Smith, Hendricks took a forager’s dream job, searching through the woodsmore...
Chef and home cooks alike used to arrive early to Peachtree Road Farmers Market to get first dibs on forager MICHAEL HENDRICKS’ found edibles. This year, however, after nine years of working closely with Staplehouse’s Ryan Smith, Hendricks took a forager’s dream job, searching through the woods full-time for chef Smith’s award-winning restaurant. Besides mushrooms, he brings in ramps, daylily shoots and buds, wood sorrel, Japanese knotweed and violet leaves. That dreamy chicken liver tart recently came tweezered with Hendricks’ golden chanterelles, and marrying their skills together is the basis Staplehouse was born upon: “health, happiness, and longevity through what we eat,” as Hendricks puts it. He can take a little credit for that edible flower in your cocktail, too, as he also cares for the herb garden out back. Staplehouse, 541 Edgewood Ave. S.E. 404-524-5005. www.staplehouse.com.
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The Canteen
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Food Terminal
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The steakhouse genre too often comes in the form of overly stuffy bastions of masculine excess. THE FEDERAL does no such thing. It’s tempting to call Shaun Doty and Lance Gummere’s new Midtown spot a simple bistro, but the steak offerings at the heart of the menu stretch the definition. From hand-cutmore...
The steakhouse genre too often comes in the form of overly stuffy bastions of masculine excess. THE FEDERAL does no such thing. It’s tempting to call Shaun Doty and Lance Gummere’s new Midtown spot a simple bistro, but the steak offerings at the heart of the menu stretch the definition. From hand-cut Iowa filets ordered by the ounce to massive yet attractively priced porterhouses, the Federal tempts with well-sourced cuts cooked simply in cast iron. Plus, there’s the option of expertly prepared sauces like au poivre, béarnaise and chasseur on the side. A three-course steak frites prix fixe for $30 offers the best bargain on the menu, available from 5-7 p.m. at the bar, Monday through Fridays only. 1050 Crescent Ave. N.E. 404-343-3857. www.thefederalatl.com.
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Following years of work by the Georgia Craft Brewers Guild and countless beer advocates around the state, SENATE BILL 85 was finally signed into law this year, allowing Peach State beer makers to start selling beer directly to their customers on Sept. 1. Georgia is the final state in the country to passmore...
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Wrecking Bar Brewpub
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Perhaps the most-talked-about craft beer trend of 2017 was the New England-style India Pale Ale. An easy-drinking riff on craft’s most popular style, NE IPAs prioritize tantalizing hop aromas and juicy flavor profiles over bitterness and the “hoppy” wallop generally associated with IPAs. Wreckingmore...
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Year » 2017
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Hopstix
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
In burgeoning Chamblee, HOPSTIX brewer and owner Andy Tan has blessed us with a concept both inventive and unprecedented. His Asian fusion brewpub, with its wood-laced, rustic chic interior, boasts a tap list of Georgia craft breweries alongside an array of consistently solid IPAs, wheat beers, portersmore...
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photo by: Joeff Davis
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Best little chocolate factory in Atlanta BOA Award Winner
Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Xocolatl Small Batch Chocolate
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Critics Pick
Nestled inside Krog Street Market sits the tiniest chocolate factory in Atlanta — and maybe the nation. Husband and wife team Elaine Read and Matt Weyandt opened XOCOLATL back in 2014 and have been steadily churning chocolate bars (and their highly addictive drinking chocolate — hot in the wintermore...
Nestled inside Krog Street Market sits the tiniest chocolate factory in Atlanta — and maybe the nation. Husband and wife team Elaine Read and Matt Weyandt opened XOCOLATL back in 2014 and have been steadily churning chocolate bars (and their highly addictive drinking chocolate — hot in the winter and frozen in the summer) out of their miniscule 250-something-square-foot space ever since. The couple is serious about ingredients and sourcing. All bars are single origin and start with a base of just cane sugar and pure cacao from South and Central America. Be sure to try their latest offering: Love & Happiness, made with Peruvian cacao beans, fresh raspberry and blood orange. 99 Krog St. N.E. 404-604-9642. www.xocolatlchocolate.com
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Although obvious genius James “Fly” Lindsay invented RAP SNACKS in Philadelphia back in 1994, the self-described “official snacks of hip-hop” didn’t go mainstream until last summer, when a regional re-launch brought them to shelves up and down the East Coast (including Atlanta). Migos, ourmore...
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Born in Brooklyn as the daughter of a Liberian immigrant and a Black Panther, 34-year-old ABIODUN HENDERSON is no stranger to social justice. Though her parents both died young, they instilled in her a passion for helping others, whatever the cost. Eventually, Henderson joined the Occupy the Hood movement,more...
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Year » 2017
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
Flying Biscuit (13 ATL Locations)
Section » Print Features » Special Issue » Best of Atlanta » 2017 » Oral Pleasures » Readers Pick
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